* Location: 79 Wellington St, London WC2E 7DB, United Kingdom
* Website: Visit Website
* Price: ££ – Mid-range
* Booking: Booking recommended, especially during peak times
Plant Power in the Heart of Theatreland: Mildreds Covent Garden Reviewed
Finding truly inspired plant-based dining amidst the tourist throngs and pre-theatre rushes of Covent Garden can sometimes feel like searching for a quiet corner in Piccadilly Circus. Yet, nestled conveniently on Wellington Street, Mildreds offers a vibrant beacon of hope for vegetarians, vegans, and the merely curious. This outpost of the beloved London institution, which first began charming Soho diners decades ago, brings its signature blend of globally-inspired, meat-free comfort food to Theatreland’s doorstep. It’s not about hushed reverence for vegetables; it’s about celebrating flavour and texture with gusto. Stepping inside promises an escape from the predictable, hinting at a lively meal where plants take centre stage, not as an afterthought, but as the undeniable stars.
Buzzing Bites: The Vibe and Welcome at Mildreds
Step off Wellington Street and into Mildreds, and you’re immediately enveloped in a cheerful, energetic buzz. The relatively compact space hums with conversation, reflecting its popularity. Decor leans towards modern-casual with warm lighting, simple wooden tables, and touches of greenery, creating an atmosphere that’s welcoming rather than overly formal. It’s undeniably lively – perhaps bordering on bustling during peak hours – so don’t expect hushed intimacy. Service mirrors this energy: generally friendly, efficient, and commendably swift, particularly given the constant turnover. On a busy Tuesday evening, our server managed to navigate the tightly packed tables with practiced ease, offering a quick, knowledgeable recommendation for a non-alcoholic cocktail without missing a beat, embodying the restaurant’s generally smooth, if sometimes hurried, operational style.
A Global Feast: Culinary Highlights from the Kitchen
Mildreds’ menu is a delightful globetrot, confidently borrowing flavours from Asia, the Middle East, and beyond, all firmly rooted in plant-based prowess. It’s less about mimicking meat and more about showcasing the versatility and inherent deliciousness of vegetables, grains, and legumes. The drinks list follows suit, offering inventive cocktails (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic), a concise wine selection, and fresh juices that happily complement the vibrant food.
Sri Lankan Sweet Potato and Green Bean Curry
A stalwart of the Mildreds menu for good reason. This curry arrives steaming and fragrant, a vibrant yellow testament to turmeric. The coconut milk base is beautifully creamy but avoids being overly heavy, carrying warming spices like cardamom and cinnamon alongside a gentle chilli heat. Tender chunks of sweet potato provide earthy sweetness, contrasted by the slight crunch of green beans and roasted cashews scattered generously on top. Served with fluffy basmati rice, it’s deeply comforting, subtly complex, and manages to feel both wholesome and indulgent. A reliably delicious choice.
Buttermilk ‘Chicken’ Burger
Tackling a vegan ‘chicken’ burger can be perilous territory, but Mildreds navigates it with aplomb. The star is the remarkably convincing patty – a substantial fillet with a craggy, properly crisp coating giving way to a surprisingly tender, textured interior that holds its own. It’s nestled in a soft brioche bun (check for vegan version if needed) with classic accompaniments: tangy pickles, crisp lettuce, red onion, and a generous slathering of creamy aioli. Served alongside perfectly acceptable fries, it satisfies that specific burger craving with satisfying heft and flavour, proving plant-based can do comfort food just as well.
Charred Aubergine, Tahini & Pomegranate Molasses
This starter exemplifies Mildreds’ skill with Levantine flavours. Silky, smoky wedges of charred aubergine form the base, cooked until meltingly tender. A rich, nutty tahini dressing provides creamy counterpoint, while a drizzle of sweet-tart pomegranate molasses cuts through the richness beautifully. Toasted seeds add welcome textural crunch, and vibrant pomegranate jewels burst with freshness. It’s a simple concept executed perfectly, delivering layers of flavour – smoky, creamy, tangy, sweet – that dance on the palate. A fantastic way to kick off the meal.
The Verdict: Vibrant Veggies in a Lively Setting
Mildreds Covent Garden successfully delivers on its promise of exciting, internationally-inspired vegetarian and vegan cuisine. It thrives in its bustling, casual environment, making it an excellent choice for a flavour-packed pre-theatre meal, a lively catch-up with friends, or a satisfying weeknight dinner when you crave something reliably delicious and plant-focused. While the close quarters and energetic pace might not suit a quiet, romantic evening, the consistently good food and generally efficient service make it a standout in the area. If you’re seeking inventive vegetarian fare served with enthusiasm rather than pretence, Mildreds remains a failsafe London favourite – that Sri Lankan curry alone is worth navigating the Covent Garden crowds for.
